Sunday, February 06, 2011


I really wanted to love L'Agrume. I'm really happy that two people who have been there on separate occasions loved it enough to name it one of their favorite restaurants in Paris. But I can't say that. For me, I liked the place, I didn't love it. Maybe, like Frenchie, I hyped it up too much for myself. Or, more likely, I am just so jaded by the same type of food I always see. There is always sea bass/dorade/sea bream for the fish. There is usually duck. Invariably, there are lentils and foie gras and pork belly.

It is a pretty good deal though - 5 courses for €38-ish. We started with a celeriac veloute with black truffle oil. Creamy and probably really good if I liked celeriac more than I do. But I don't.

Following, a slice of foie gras on a bed of saucy lentils which were enhanced with game stock. I passed the foie gras on to others but the lentils were definitely a highlight of the meal. I'm a sucker for lentils. In fact I have some in the fridge right now...

And next it was the sea bass. It was definitely fishy but in a good way. Served zucchini, olives (which I picked out) and foam. What kind of foam? I don't know. AB took a bite, gagged and then to make it seems that he ate his, I ate 3/4 of mine, switched plates with him and ate most of his as well. No one noticed...

And for the meat course, veal loin serves medium with a some kind of reduction, golden raisins and carrots. The Frenchies know how to cook carrots really well.

To finish, a piece of puff pastry with bananas and creme fraiche. Yea I thought that was ice cream too but no. Full-fat creme fraiche. 

The chef runs a one-man show with just one assistant in the back who cooks and does dishes it seems and his wife is the waitress with also just one more person helping her. It's always impressive to see people run a restaurant of this caliber with so little staff, for so cheap and with high quality ingredients. I was impressed with the operation, but unfortunately not with the food.

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